It’s not often that wines from Calabria cross my path. And I’m sure these wines are not on most consumers’ shopping lists, but they should be. Here is a brief introduction to Calabria and its wines. Calabria is a southern Italian region located in the “toe” of Italy’s boot and just a stone’s throw from Sicily, separated by the Strait of Messina. Calabria is surrounded by the Ionian and the Tyrrhenian Sea, making up a beautiful coastline with lush forests and mountains inland. This region is no stranger to winemaking, with the ancient Greeks being the first to cultivate grape vines here. Although Calabria has no DOCGs, it is home to 12 DOC titles, with grape vines only occupying approximately five percent of the region’s total wine output. The most well-known DOC appellation is Cirò, considered the most suitable wine-growing area. Its landscape is flat close to the sea, and hilly inland. The Mediterranean moderates and cools the vineyards with morning and late afternoon breezes, alleviating the intense heat of summer. Cirò is famous for its red wine production, specifically the Gaglioppo grape variety, in addition to limited production of Cirò Blanco and Rosato. I recently had an opportunity to taste several wines with Paolo Librandi, the third generation of Librandi, a family-run company located in Cirò Marina, where 80% of Librandi’s production is. Paolo’s grandfather Raffaele, the youngest of 10 children, founded the company in 1953. He started with six hectares, one for each of his children. Today there are six estates and over 230 hectares. The company is run by Nicodemo, Raffaele, Paolo, Francesco and Teresa Librandi. Librandi is focused on indigenous grape varieties Gaglioppo, Magliocco, Mantonico and Greco Bianco. In addition, international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Sauvignon have been planted with the aim “to combine the highly recognizable local varieties with the freshness and smoothness of the international varieties.” In 1993 they began to research and experiment with the objective of recovering and enhancing native grape varieties. They have created experimental vineyards in which 200 of the region’s rediscovered indigenous varieties are collected, analyzed, and preserved. Librandi is tied to traditions but embraces new technology and became certified sustainable two years ago. “From this unique landscape, we Librandi have always taken our inspiration to embody the oenological tradition of an area that is historically suited to the cultivation of vines.” So, let’s taste some wine! Critone Calabria Bianco IGT 2021 “International taste, Calabrian soul” This blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon Blanc is a best seller. Production area: Strongoli, Rocca di Neto/Casabona Nose: Floral, salinity, white stone fruit, and green apple. Palate: Citrus, grapefruit, white peach, a hint of herbs, zesty acidity, and refreshing. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $19 Segno Librandi Cirò Bianco DOC 2020 “Brilliant like the summer sun.” This wine is 100% Greco Bianco, and the variety only exists in Calabria. Paolo said, “This grape needs extra stressful conditions to reach its perfect ripeness.” Production area: Cirò, Cirò Marina, Crucoli Nose: Fresh flowers, the sea, green apples, and herbs Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with tropical notes, white stone fruit, and acidity. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $15 Gravello Calabria Rosso IGT 2019 “Super Tuscan with International taste” This is Librandi’s flagship wine. Paolo calls it “Frankenstein wine, a perfection of blending.” It is 60% Gaglioppo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. After fermentation, it is aged in Allier barriques for 12 months and then six months in bottle before release. The first vintage was in 1988. Production area: Arcidiaconato estate in the countryside of Strongoli. Nose: Dark berries, cherry, violet, Palate: Dark fruit, cherry, spice, licorice, nice acidity. It is a complex and well-structured wine, balanced nicely between sweet and savory. Alcohol: 15% SRP: $30 Duca Sanfelice Cirò Riserva Rosso Classico Superiore DOC 2019 “Our land, our roots. Authentic. It is the wine that most closely links us to our origins, the wine of Cirò.” This is 100% Gaglioppo with grapes sourced from vineyards in the best sub-zones. The wine is aged in steel and concrete vats for two years and then several months in bottle before release. This particular vintage was aged for three years. Production area: Cirò, Cirò Marina Nose: Floral, red fruit, herbs, and earthy. Palate: Berries, sour cherry, spice, balanced nicely with tannins and acidity, and a long finish with cherry and a hint of anise lingering. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $20 Segno Librandi Cirò Rosso Classico DOC 2019 “Pleasant and intense like the aromas of the Mediterranean maquis.” This is 100% Gaglioppo. The wine is aged in stainless steel vats followed by a few months in bottle before release.
Production area: Cirò, Cirò Marina Nose: Violet, cherries, red berries, and herbs. Palate: Dark cherry, red and dark berries, raspberry, spice, natural acidity. Very fresh, with cherry and spice lingering. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: N/A What started as bulk wine production in the 1950s has turned into a dedicated mission for the Librandi family to produce excellent wines while maintaining the integrity of Calabria and its terroir. Librandi is proud to support and promote their land. “Our family's wines are ambassadors of our land and culture, ideas that find their realization in the family vineyards and the dedication we devote to their cultivation.” Treat your palate to some wine from Calabria. Your palate will thank me! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Three years ago, Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo invited me to attend an educational seminar in New York City to learn about the Abruzzo wine region of Italy. Not only was I introduced to some stunning wines indigenous to this region, but I also had the opportunity to meet with several new-generation wine producers. This new generation echoed a recurring theme that day on the importance of “balancing tradition while introducing new innovations.” The Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo was established in 2002 to monitor, defend, protect, and safeguard the controlled designations of origin and maintain the quality of production. Its 400 members are grape growers, winemakers, and bottlers. A few weeks ago, Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo invited me to experience the wonders of Abruzzo firsthand. And although I learned so much during the seminar in NYC, nothing can compare to the magic of physically standing at the edge of the Adriatic Sea with the breathtaking backdrop of the Apennine Mountains, walking through vineyards, partaking in the local cuisine and culture, and touring historic villages with imposing abbeys and castles. On this trip, the ever-present mantra of the new generation of winemakers I met continued, “balancing tradition while introducing new innovations.” Their enthusiasm, along with love and respect for the land, and determination to produce high-quality wines are commanding, and it shows in the wines that I sampled. A movement toward experimenting in the vineyards to find ways to combat climate change, along with a growth in certified organic farming, sustainability, and infusing new technology with traditional methods, is the new norm here. And the older generations are embracing these new paths forged to showcase the terroir and produce unique and more complex wines. For those who may have missed my original article from a few years ago, here is an introduction to Abruzzo. Abruzzo is situated in central Italy between the Adriatic Sea and Gran Sasso d’Italia (one of the highest peaks in Italy, standing at 9,554 ft.) and Majella Massif, both part of the Apennine Mountains. For centuries, the inhabitants of Abruzzo have referred to the Majella Massif as a sacred mountain. Abruzzo winemaking dates back to the fourth century BC when the Etruscans introduced viniculture to the area. However, winemaking took a dip in production for several centuries, and it is only in the last 50 years that it has been on an upswing. Bulk wine once dominated the scene, but with a recent turnover of the newer generations, Abruzzo is producing more quality-driven wines. The Abruzzo wine region is divided into four provinces with sub-zones. Overall, there are approximately 6,000 grape producers, 35 wine cooperatives, and over 250 wineries, with the majority of wine production taking place in Chieti province, where more than 83% of Abruzzo wine growing is located. Two geographical areas make up Abruzzo, the inland mountainous area that covers 65% of the entire region and the long coastal area with sweeping hills. Climate and geography play an important role in wine’s outcome, and the stage is set for the terroir of Abruzzo. A moderate coastal climate exists in the area along the Adriatic-facing side of the Apennines and is more continental inland. The vineyards benefit from the high altitude that provides significant diurnal temperature variations and good ventilation that cools the vineyards, while the Adriatic contributes a coastal breeze. Primary soils are clay-rich interspersed with limestone and sandy with marine deposits found along the coastline. Calcareous soils, marls, and rock are inland. There are an impressive 36,000 hectares of vineyards in the Abruzzo region, with the majority of vineyards planted on hills. Abruzzo produces approximately 3.5 million hectoliters of wine each year! And more than one million of these wines are Controlled Designation of Origin. (DOC) of which approximately 80% are Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. In fact, 58% of all vineyards are planted to Montepulciano, with 17,000 hectares under vine. As of 2019 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane is the only D.O.C.G made in Abruzzo with a minimum of 90% Montepulciano. Notable indigenous varieties and wines are below with a “generalized” description. Red Grape Montepulciano d’Abruzzo This is Abruzzo’s star red grape. The wines tend to be rich, complex, and medium-bodied, with typical flavors of red fruit, plum, dark berries, and herbs. It is a versatile grape that can be produced as a simple, fresh un-oaked wine or aged in casks for a more dense and complex wine. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo A deep cherry-colored wine considered the rosé of Abruzzo. Made with Montepulciano grapes, the color is obtained from a short maceration of 24 hours or less. The wine leans toward intense red fruit flavors with racy acidity and palate-pleasing freshness. White Grapes Trebbiano This is Abruzzo’s star white grape. Trebbiano tends to be light and fresh with tropical fruit, citrus flavors, lively acidity, and a trace of almond on the finish. Pecorino Not to be confused with cheese, this grape produces a dry, fresh wine with tropical or citrus fruit, minerality, bracing acidity, herbal notes, and a beautiful floral bouquet. Cococciola These grapes were traditionally used for blending but are now produced on their own as well. The wines tend to have floral and citrus aromas, with the palate offering fruit-forward and herbal notes. It is dry, fresh, and has vibrant acidity. Passerina This is another fresh and vibrant wine with distinct notes of apricot, white stone fruit, herbs, and floral. In addition to still wines, many wineries are producing sparkling wines from the above grapes, which tend to be vibrant, fresh, and aromatic. What I love about these wines is their versatility when paired with all types of food. Our first night in the province of Chieti in Abruzzo we dined on local cuisine at Trabocca Punta Cavalluccia. Up and down the southern coastline, especially in Chieti, there are pilings called trabocci. These fishing platforms extend out to the sea and were first designed in the 18th century to allow fishermen to harpoon and catch fish with nets without needing to use a boat. A long gangplank leads to a covered structure firmly anchored into the sea bed with stilts. It may look fragile, but it isn’t! Today, a few of these trabocci have been restored, renovated, and turned into fabulous restaurants, and Trabocca Punta Cavalluccia is among the well-known. It is open dining out on the Adriatic Sea! We enjoyed a six-course meal, savoring the local bounty from the sea while treating our palates to Abruzzo wines. Below are just a few examples of our dinner. The variety of local food is as varied as the landscape of Abruzzo. As we drove away from the sea toward the mountains, we were treated to different styles of food. And the wines were palate-pleasing every step of the way. This is the first of several articles on Abruzzo. In future articles, we will visit a few wineries and quaint villages and delve into the hidden gem of Villamagna, DOC. I encourage you to try Abruzzo wines and sip with me as we explore Abruzzo together! Your palate will thank me! Until next time… Cheers! Penina This article was originally published to Santé Magazine. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] It’s time to break out the sparklers, watch a fireworks show, and plan a backyard BBQ! Whether you’re firing up the grill or packing a picnic basket for the beach, here are four palate-pleasing red, white, and pink wines to complement many food options. Quattro Quarti Grillo DOC Sicilia 2019 This 100% Grillo is produced by Cantine Ermes, founded in 1998 in the heart of Belice Valley in Sicily. They have an impressive 10,592 hectares of vineyards spread across Sicily. The grapes for this wine are sourced from four different territories and exhibit “a mosaic of identity” that includes an elegant Mediterranean bouquet. Nose: Floral, white stone fruit, and citrus. Palate: Peach, grapefruit, crisp acidity, salinity, and very refreshing. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $15 Pairing suggestions: Seafood, grilled chicken, oysters, and salads. Or enjoy it as an aperitif. Francis Ford Coppola Sofia Brut Rosé 2018 This lovely sparkling rosé is a tribute to Francis Ford Coppola’s only daughter. The grapes are sourced from their vineyards in Monterey County, California, and are a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. This light and refreshing wine is perfect for kicking off any festivities. Nose: Floral, tart berries, sweet strawberries, citrus, and spice. Palate: Ripe strawberries, citrus, and spice, with light effervesce, a creamy mouthfeel, and crisp acidity. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $19 Pairing suggestions: Enjoy as an aperitif or with light fare. Great with chocolate cake too! Las Moradas De San Martín Initio 2015 Located on the Madrid side of the Gredos range of hills in Spain, this is where the winery’s vineyards are for the ancient Garnacha vines that were recovered and had been cultivated since the 12th century. This 100% Garnacha is from a single vineyard with vines that are over 60 years old. The wine is aged for 17 months in oak. Nose: Cherry, balsamic notes, berries, plum, and minerality. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with wild berries and fennel. It is fresh and lively! Alcohol: 15% SRP: $16 Pairing suggestions: Grilled meat, game, stews, paella, cheese, or seared tuna. Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2018 Family-owned Jordan Vineyard & Winery is located in Alexander Valley AVA, in the heart of Sonoma County, California. Jordan focuses on producing noteworthy Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Taken from different blocks, this is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, and 2% Malbec. The wine was aged in 100% French oak for 13 months, 35% new, and 65% one-year-old barrels. Nose: Dark cherry, dark berries, baking spice, and fig. Palate: Lush blackberry mingled with savory notes, toasted nuts, a hint of raspberry, silky tannins, and vanilla lingering on a long and elegant finish. Alcohol: 13.8% SRP: $60 Pairing suggestions: Grilled or roasted meats and game, mushroom risotto, grilled veggies, or hearty meat and vegetarian stews. Enjoy the holiday weekend and be safe! Until next time…
Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] This is a virtual visit to one of the oldest winemaking countries in the world. Georgia is one of the oldest winemaking countries in the world, with archaeological evidence dating back 8000 years, making the tradition of winemaking almost 1,000 years older than previously thought. According to Wines Of Georgia, “In 2015, in southeast Georgia, archaeologists discovered clay vessels (qvevri) containing the residue of cultivated grape seeds. Using archaeological, archaeobotanical, climatic, and chemical methods, researchers dated these artifacts to 6000 BCE.” Fragments of ceramic casks, some decorated with grape motifs, were also found. Qvevri Wines of Georgia explained what qvevri are. “Qvevri are egg-shaped clay vessels that Georgians have used continuously for 8,000 years. These large tapered vessels, often 1,000 liters or more, are buried underground to keep temperatures constant during fermentation and aging. Using the traditional method, winemakers ferment the juice and skins together. Skin contact turns what would otherwise be white wines into amber wines with tannins. Winemakers use qvevri to ferment red grapes as well as white. Qvevri are still made by hand by Georgia’s master qvevri-making families. With the rising popularity of amber and natural wines, the demand for qvevri is on the rise in Georgia and internationally. In 2013, the United Nations added qvevri winemaking to the UNESCO list documenting humanity’s intangible cultural heritage.” Below are photos of qvevri stored outside and inside the winery. Once part of the Soviet republic, Georgia is located in the Caucasus region of Eurasia that intersects Europe and Asia. It borders the Great Caucasus Mountains to the north, the Black Sea to the west, and the lesser Caucasus to the south. It is 27,000 square miles, slightly less than the state of Maine! There are nine wine regions throughout Georgia with 55,000 hectares of vines and 24 Protected Designations of Origin (PDO). Kakheti wine region, located in the easternmost part of the country, is the primary winemaking area where approximately three-quarters of Georgia’s vineyards are planted. Climate is diverse throughout the wine regions and can range from subtropical to continental to alpine to near desert-like. Mineral-rich soil and deposits can be found in all regions, which contribute to the characteristic flavors of the wines. Georgia has 525 indigenous grape varieties, with approximately 38 varieties used for commercial production; 55% are planted to white and 45% to red. The two most prominent grape varieties are Rkatsiteli (white) and Saperavi (red). Although most wine shipped to the United States is dry, about 70% of Georgia’s wine production is semi-sweet and sweet. After Georgia’s five-day war with Russia in 2008, it lost over 90% of its export market. However, when Russia’s ban on Georgian wine was lifted in 2013, 57% of Georgian wine went to Russia. As of 2019, Georgia exports wine to 53 countries, and the number of bottles shipped is climbing steadily. Within the ex-Soviet states, Georgia is second after Moldova in the amount of grape production. And it is safe to say that Georgian wine is now on everyone’s radar. Georgia has over 100,000 family wineries with deep winemaking roots in every family. So there is much to explore and taste. Sun Wine is a family winery located in Kvareli in the Kakheti region. The Mzekalashvili family has approximately 90 hectares of vineyards, focusing on combining modern and old means of winemaking passed down from their grandfather, Zurab Mzekalashvili. over 50 years ago. Today, his grandson, Zurab Mzekalashvili, inspired by his grandfather’s traditions, created Sun Wine in 1978. He produces wine based on the specific technology developed by the Mzekalashvili family and frequently adds new techniques and designs. Both of the Sun Wines I tasted were made with indigenous grapes. Sun Wine Tsinandali 2018 Estate Bottled This white wine is a blend of 80% Rkatsiteli and 20% Mtsvane. The grapes are sourced from vineyards in the Telavi and Kvareli areas of Kakheti. Nose: Inviting aromas of floral, melon, anise, and white stone fruit. Palate: Green apple, white flowers, apricot, and crisp acidity with a hint of nuttiness lingering on the finish. It is dry and refreshing. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $18 Pairings: Serve with seafood, salads, and cheese. Sun Wine Saperavi 2018 Estate Bottled Grapes are sourced from the Kindzmarauli area of Kakheti for this 100% Saperavi. Saperavi means “the place of color” and is one of the few red grape varieties in the world with red flesh and red skin. Nose: This dark purple wine has enticing aromas of dark cherry, floral and spice. Palate: Aromas segue onto the palate with dark berries, pomegranate, dark cocoa, and licorice. It all blends beautifully with added lively acidity. Alcohol: 12% SRP: $19 Pairings: Pair with grilled meat, seared tuna, and hearty stews. These are delightful wines that one can enjoy as an aperitif in addition to food. So, take your palate on an exploration of Georgian wines, and let me know what you think! Until next time… Cheers! Penina This article was originally published on Santé Magazine. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] It might be winter with lots of snow, ice, and frigid temperatures, but I’m enjoying a touch of spring with these fresh and vibrant wines from Languedoc! Languedoc and Roussillon, now known as the Occitanie region since 2016, is France’s largest wine-producing area located in southern France(approximately 584,400 acres). It extends from the Rhône valley in the east to the Spanish border in the southwest. Languedoc makes up about 90% of this region, with Roussillon occupying 10%. The wine styles reflect the climate and terrain, which vary with the location of the vineyards growing from the Mediterranean Sea to the mountainous terrain more inland. While this region offers red, white, rosé and sparkling wines, about 75% to 80% of the wine production is red, with Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Carignan being the major players. The red wines are noted for being fruit-driven and full-bodied, with an emphasis on blends rather than single varietals. White grapes include Grenache Blanc, Picpoul, Vermentino, Viognier, and Bourbouelenc.
Most of Languedoc’s vineyards are located on coastal plains, and Roussillon vineyards lie in the foothills of the Pyrenees or on cliff tops. The vineyards experience a primarily Mediterranean climate with varying microclimates and soil composition. It is interesting to note that Languedoc is documented as one of France’s largest organic wine-growing regions. Here are three samples of what Languedoc has to offer. Domaine Reine Juliette Picpoul de Pinet ‘Terres Rouges’ 2020 Domaine Reine Juliette is a sixth-generation winery located on the Via Domitia in Pomerols on the Mediterranean coast. This wine is made from 100% Picpoul blanc grapes planted in red limestone gravel in vineyards situated in the Appellation of Protected Designation of Origin Languedoc “Picpoul de Pinet.” Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, with short aging in bottle before release. Nose: Floral, white stone fruit, melon, and citrus Palate: Dry and crisp with lemon, honeydew, white peach, minerality, and a touch of red ruby grapefruit on the finish. Alcohol: 13% SRP: $23 Pairing: Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with salmon croquettes, shellfish, or oysters. Terre Des Dames Le Rosé 2020 AOC Coteaux du Languedoc Terre Des Dames was purchased in 2002, but the estate’s originality shines through with its 100 -year-old vines and 18th-century buildings. This rosé is a blend of 40% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, and 10% Syrah. Grapes are sourced from small plots on different levels and are surrounded by ancient stone walls and wild garrigue. Nose: Floral, red berries, Palate: Fresh fruit, raspberry, strawberry, spice, minerality, and a hint of herbal. Crisp, dry, with subtle complexity, and quite delightful! Alcohol: 13% SRP: $21 Pairing: Enjoy as an aperitif or serve with light fare. Domaine La Madura ‘Classic Rouge’ 2018 AOP Saint-Chinian Domaine La Madura is located in Saint-Chinian appellation, with blocks of vineyards planted on a patchwork of very varied soils and altitudes that differ from one plot to another. The blend for this wine is 34% Grenache, 22% Carignan, 22% Mourvèdre, and 15% Syrah, with vines growing on slopes in varying soil types such as clay-limestone, sandstone, and schist. Aging of wine is in concrete vats and 3 to 10-year-old barrels for Syrah and Mourvèdre. Nose: Cherry, dark fruit, herbal notes, and earthy. Palate: This wine is fresh and sassy. Aromas segue onto the palate with silky tannins, anise, and minerality. Alcohol: 14% SRP: $22 Pairing: Grilled meat, stews, glazed duck, seared tuna, mushroom risotto, or hearty soups. The above wines are unique and expressive of Languedoc’s terroir. If you can’t travel to Languedoc right now, let your palate take you on tour. Even with lots of snow outside my window, I’m happy to sip these wines and let them take me to Languedoc for a visit. Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] We’ve all either been to or seen photos of breathtaking views of wine vineyards nestled among enchanting settings worthy of a picture postcard. So, what makes Ehret Family Winery’s Bavarian Lion Vineyards so unique? It is not only the location and dazzling views, it is also the magical grapes that grow here, the passion and love the Ehret family pours into protecting the environment, and a dedicated team focused on producing outstanding wines. Knights Valley Bavarian Lion Vineyards is located in Knights Valley, an AVA in one of Northern Sonoma County’s most prestigious viticultural areas. Knights Valley earned its AVA status in 1983 and has approximately 2000 acres of vineyards. The Knights Valley AVA borders the Alexander Valley AVA to the west, Chalk Hill to the south, and Calistoga (in Napa Valley) to the east. Because of its sheltered location, Knights Valley is one of the warmest areas in Sonoma County. Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varieties thrive in this environment with well-drained soils, abundant sunshine, warm day temperatures, and cool nights. In addition, alluvial gravel soils and volcanic deposits have a direct impact in keeping yields low, which in turn contributes to more concentrated and flavorful grapes. Bavarian Lion Vineyards and Ehret Family Winery The largest estate in Knights Valley is Ehret Family Winery’s 1800-acre Bavarian Lion Vineyards. With a passion and appreciation for fine wine, entrepreneur and German-born Pierre Ehret and his wife Susan purchased 2000 acres of land here in 1978. After selling off 200 acres to a well-known winery in 1995, they were left with 1800 acres of prime land. Not wanting to disturb the biodiversity of this dramatic nature preserve, Pierre and Susan planted wine vineyards on only 1/4 of the property, covering 500 acres in 1996, and established the Bavarian Lion Vineyards. Pierre said, “It is important that the natural environment co-exists with the vineyards, and that the birdlife, wildlife, trees, insects, and fish are allowed to prosper.” Bavarian Lion Vineyards are Certified Sustainable, and they have a certification in Fish Friendly Farming from the California Land Stewardship Institute. A minimalist approach is practiced in the vineyards. All energy is derived from installed solar panels, and only rainwater run-off is recycled and used in the vineyards, eliminating groundwater irrigation. Since 1996, Pierre has been selling his premium grapes to prestigious wineries throughout Sonoma and Napa Valley. But in 2005, he decided to create his own label, Ehret Family Winery and took several of the best premium blocks for his wines. He continues to sell grapes to wineries at an average of 1800 – 2000+ tons per year and keeps 15-20 tons (approximately 1%) for his brand. I asked Pierre what motivated him to create his brand. Pierre: “I received so much positive feedback from all of our customers. I thought it would be a fun family project to make our own wine. Also, several wineries were putting our name on the back of their wine labels as the designated vineyard. And these same wines were getting high scores which I found intriguing.” In 2006 Ehret Family Winery produced their first vintage of Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon. After harvest, grapes are transported to a custom crush facility where Erin Green, the consultant winemaker, supervises and spins her magic, producing an amazing portfolio of wines for Ehret Family Winery. Erin has been with Ehret starting with the 2015 vintage. She is no stranger to winemaking and has an impressive background dating back to the 1990s. Erin said that she prefers consulting rather than running a winery. “I like the process from farming to production.” When Erin first arrived at Bavarian Lion Vineyards, she searched among the blocks to find the hidden jewels. Her goal was to try and raise the quality of the wine. “My first year, I worked with nine different blocks and was able to grow Cabernet Sauvignon as a very small berry and cluster. The berries were very dark, rich, dense, and concentrated. I like lighter crop levels to obtain more intense flavor and accumulate enough sugar and maturity in the grapes.” In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon, the vineyards are planted to Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Zinfandel. I asked Erin if climate change has had an impact on the vineyards. Erin: “It can get warm, and we’ve had some drought years, but we have three very large trap water reservoirs to help us. Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is tougher and can deal with the change.” Pierre added, “Knights Valley is known for its temperate and special climate. It is the fires that are our biggest issue, more so than climate change. The smoke from the fires can sit in the vineyards and contaminate the vines and grapes.” Bavarian Lion Vineyards has approximately 79 blocks ranging from 400-800 feet in elevation. All of Ehret’s Cabs are a blend of selected blocks, and the Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel are produced from single blocks. Since 2015, Ehret Family Wines has been winning awards, and their wines receive high ratings every year. Here are three gems from their portfolio. Sauvignon Blanc 2020 This 100% Sauvignon Blanc was aged in stainless steel tanks. Erin said, “The painstaking effort with which we crafted this singular expression of Knights Valley Sauvignon Blanc was worth every last second of the month-long ferment. Utilizing an extremely low-temperature tactic allowed us to enhance and concentrate the fruit expression this grape variety is so famous for.“ Nose: Citrus zest, white stone fruit, minerality, and a dash of floral Palate: Fresh and vibrant acidity with peach, grapefruit, melon, and minerality blended in. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $35 Production: 440 cases Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 This wine is a blend of 75.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16.61% Cabernet Franc and 8.17% Petite Verdot. The wine was aged for 18 months in 52% new French oak barrels. Nose: Ripe berries, cherry, baking spice, and violet Palate: Silky tannins, dark ripe fruit, black cherry, pomegranate, dark raspberry, toasted oak, and cocoa, ending with a rich and persistent finish. Alcohol: 15% SRP: $75 Production: 505 cases Hillside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine aged for 18 months in 78% new French oak barrels. Nose: Violet, dark cherry, and blackberry Palate: Rich and concentrated dark fruit with blackberry, blueberry, dark cherry, herbs, and dark chocolate. Oak and mineral notes dance around the palate with soft tannins and a long finish. Alcohol: 15.5% SRP: $115 Production: 202 cases Concerning the 2021 vintage, this is what Erin had to say. “The 2021 vintage was challenging because of low yields and limited water. It was 20% to 30% down in quantity. However, it is a small but powerful vintage with very tiny and flavorful berries…it is liquid gold! Nature gave us the crops, and we didn’t have to under-crop to attain low yields. It’s what the vines wanted to do this year, and we benefited.” I certainly look forward to tasting the 2021 vintage! So, where can one find Ehret wines? With a small production output each year, these hand-crafted wines are mainly sold online. Ehret Family Winery believes in “quality over quantity” and “passion versus mass production.” They have created an online Wine Club where members receive exclusive access, assurance of obtaining new releases, and special pricing opportunities. At present, there are about 150 members. However, one doesn’t have to be a member to order wine! Also, if you should find yourself in downtown Healdsburg, head over to the Ehret Tasting Room that they opened a few months ago. You won’t be disappointed! And, if you feel adventurous and would like a customized and personal tour of Bavarian Lion Vineyards, in addition to a wine tasting, they are taking reservations. As Pierre said, “Experience how the natural environment co-exists with the vineyards.” Pierre and Susan have three children, Alex, Christian, and Isabella, born in Santa Rosa, CA. The family likes to divide their time between Sonoma and Europe, instilling in their children a solid European heritage and appreciation for culture, both in the States and abroad. I have tasted many of the Ehret Family Winery wines in the past few weeks. They are elegant, expressive, and memorable. My palate is still singing!
Until next time… Cheers! Penny This article was originally published on Santé Magazine To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Read my latest article for Santé Magazine about the wines of Croatia. Click the link below.
https://santemagazine.com/wines-of-croatia-an-overview/ If you’ve been following my posts for the last few years, then you know that on occasion, I will review new vintages of my favorite wines from producers that I have written about in the past. And so it is with Pasqua Vigneti é Cantine who always pleases my palate with their expressive and memorable wines. This family-run business led by third-generation Pasqua brothers is located in Verona, Italy. They have complete control over 741 acres of vineyards (1/3 is estate-owned) that stretch from Lake Garda to Soave. If you are not familiar with this estate, please click on the link below to learn more about Pasqua’s history, vineyards, and wines, or click on Pasqua from the menu at right. thewineknitter.com/1/post/2019/01/day-701-the-two-brothers-of-verona.html Although we are transitioning to the autumn season, and “more robust” wines might be on your mind, both of these wines are a pleasure to drink all year round. Pasqua “11 Minutes” Rosé Trevenezie IGT 2020 This wine is a unique blend of 50% Corvina, 25% Trebbiano di Lugana, 15% Syrah and 10% Carménère sourced from Lake Garda. The wine is called “11 Minutes” because, after harvest, the grapes are gently pressed, and with only 11 minutes of skin contact, the most noteworthy qualities of the grapes are extracted, and the color is obtained. The bottle is an unusual oval shape, with an alluring photo of Lesbia seen through the front label. A beautiful bouquet of floral, citrus, and red berries continues onto the palate with notes of strawberry, spice, and vibrant acidity. This is a fresh and elegant rosé. Serve as an aperitif or pair with light fare. Alcohol: 12.5% SRP: $20 Passione Sentimento Bianco Veneto IGT 2019 This wine is 100% Garganega grapes that are hand-harvested and sourced from Veneto. The Appassimento technique is used to make this wine. Grapes dry in crates in the drying loft for a short time to enhance the sugar and floral aromas before maceration and fermentation. Once fermentation is complete, part of the wine is aged in French oak for a few months and then finally blended. The label is an original photo of Juliet’s courtyard by photographer Giò Martorana. The courtyard is a tourist attraction in Verona that conveys the love story of Romeo and Juliet and where tourists are invited to leave and exchange messages of love. It is quite aromatic with notes of stone fruit, citrus and floral on the nose. The palate offers peach, apricot, white flowers, and lemon. It is refreshing, crisp, and well-balanced. Serve as an aperitif or with fish, salads, or cheese.
Alcohol: 13% SRP: $16 Enjoy! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] Every bottle of wine has a story, whether it’s the history behind the winemaking, the grapes, region, or the memory attached to drinking it. This is a story of an Albanian family who has striven and succeeded in making a difference in war-torn Kosovo. The story begins with Rrustem Gecaj, an Albanian American who immigrated from Yugoslavia in 1974 to escape communism and the hardships that came with it. After living in Italy and then Canada, Rrustem was granted a visa to the United States in 1976. He made his home in New York City, became a United States citizen, and with his wife raised their children in the surrounding suburbs. Through wise real estate investments and other fruitful business ventures, Rrustem amassed an impressive portfolio. However, the ravages of the Kosovo War that raged from 1998-1999 weighed on him, and he longed to return to Kosovo to help rebuild the economy and create jobs for those less fortunate who had survived the war. It was also his dream to reconstruct the family kulla (“stone house” in Albanian) that was destroyed in the war. Kullas were created by the countrymen and date back hundreds of years. A kulla is traditionally made of four-cornered walls, each three feet thick and usually two to three stories tall. They are mostly windowless towers/fortresses that were built as a social center for the extended family, as well as for defense. Many businesses and wineries in Kosovo were once state-owned properties, including Stone Castle. Built in 1953 by the Yugoslavian government, the winery was originally known as NBI Rahoveci. When many businesses became privatized in 2006, Rrustem saw an opportunity to fulfill his dream. So, with enthusiasm and determination, Rrustem returned to Kosovo with the Gecaj family and purchased the NBI Rahoveci winery renaming it Stone Castle Vineyards and Winery. In 2008, Kosovo was recognized as an independent state. Kosovo is located in the Balkan region of southeastern Europe, and Stone Castle is situated in the heart of the Rahovec Valley, Kosovo’s premier, and dominant wine region. This region enjoys a Mediterranean climate with sunny days most of the year and ample rainfall during the summer. It is, therefore, an ideal area for growing grapes. The soil is rich in clay and limestone with elevations that can reach 1700 feet above sea level. Avdi, Rrustem’s son, said, “Our soil is fertile with no need for irrigation systems due to the sufficient amount of rain.” In Kosovo, two-thirds of vineyard plantings are red grape varieties that include Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and indigenous varieties such as Vranç, Prokupac, and Zhameta. White grape varieties include Chardonnay and Riesling, with the most planted and indigenous white grape variety, Smederevka. I recently sat down with Rrustem’s three sons, Avni, Avdi, and Arben. These amazing young men, who inherited their father’s passion for Kosovo and tenacity and vision for the wine business, have taken over the reins of Stone Castle. In 2015, Avdi took over the winery’s operations, and he spends approximately nine months of the year in Kosovo. Avni is the importer, distributor, and manager of the family wines. And Arben, the youngest brother, is finishing his Master’s degree in marketing and joining his brothers in the family business. I was curious why their father chose to buy a winery instead of a factory or other business. Also, is there a history of winemaking in the family? Avni replied, “My father had no background in wine.” He explained that his family came from generations of farmers, such as cattle farmers, sheepherders, and basically anything that had to do with farming. With all the factories and businesses that had become privatized, his father saw the greatest opportunity and potential in revitalizing the winery. Avdi said, “It is one of the only companies still operating since privatization. There are 32 registered wineries in Kosovo, and they are micro-wineries. Stone Castle is the largest.” When the winery was first purchased, there were only 250 hectares of vines, and all were uncultivated and neglected. Before the war, Kosovo had over 9000 hectares of vineyards with over a 2000 year history of winemaking. Advi explained that the Yugoslavian government ordered the farmers to rip out most of the vines, and in so doing, self-destructed the wine industry. With determination and lots of help, their father revitalized and saved the vines at Stone Castle. My next question was, who helped guide the family with the renovation of the winery and restoration of the vineyards? “We had winemakers come from countries such as Germany, America, Australia, and England to consult with us. Our three head winemakers have been at the winery for 35 to 40 years, since before the privatization. We also have two new winemakers from this region, three chemists in the house, and a certified lab.” Avdi added, “In fact, we have more certifications in the lab than the government of Kosovo! Our up-to-date technology allows us to better analyze the wine.” Avdi went on to say, “My father’s main objective, along with his nephew, was to give the people of Kosovo jobs and hope. We want to take the original business plan and expand it. We’re operating at one-third capacity and need to grow. We need to plant new seeds, open new markets and give the people of Kosovo more hope, more jobs and push the industry forward.” Avni said, “We want to put Kosovo on the map as a great wine region. We’ve already won over 100 awards for our wines from all over the world.” Since the purchase, they have planted close to 500 hectares of new vineyards. Seeds were planted in 2017, covering 50 hectares for their organic joint project with the European Commission, and they introduced Stone Castle’s first organic vintage in 2020. A small portion of the Stone Castle estate is certified organic, and they are slowly making their way into converting the older vineyards. The winery is committed to sustainable practices and is currently working on its Kosher certification. In addition to the state-of-the-art facilities, their underground wine cellar has an impressive storage capacity of 50,000 HL wooden barrels. Stone Castle is transitioning from bulk market to bottle. They use entirely different tanks for the estate as opposed to locally grown grapes. And they have created a 3-tier system for the farmers to encourage them to reach the first-class level and produce the best quality grapes possible. Stone Castle grows 19 varieties of grapes, including Vranç, an indigenous variety genetically related to Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz (this spelling is used in deference to the Australian winemaker who they consulted with), and Chardonnay. Stone Castle is now distributing these premium varieties in the United States. With over 250 people employed full-time and up to 700 part-time seasonal workers at Stone Castle, Rrustem is fulfilling a dream of giving jobs and hope to the people of Kosovo. In addition, the winery is producing some very impressive wines. Here is a sampling of six wines from the estate. Ancient Vranç Gjergj Kastrioti 2018 This wine is 100% Vranç and pays tribute to Gjergj Kastrioti, the Albanian prince and symbol of national unification whose name is featured on the label. Grapes are hand-harvested from the Lisdrevish vineyard that sits at an altitude between 1148 ft. and 1475 ft. The wine is aged in Hungarian oak barrels for nine months. This was my first experience drinking Vranç, and it was delicious! Aromas of red berries, baking spice, and earth segue onto the palate with notes of dark cherry, pomegranate, plum, blackberry, and spice. It is a rich wine that will pair well with grilled meat, hearty stews, and seared tuna. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16 Shiraz 2018 The grapes for this 100% Shiraz are hand-harvested from the estate’s Izbishte vineyard located in the northeastern part of the property. The micro-climate here contributes to the production of high-quality grapes with optimal acidity. The wine is aged for 12 months in American and Hungarian oak barrels. There are many berry aromas with dark plum and blueberry dominating the palate, with soft tannins and a touch of pepper on a lengthy finish. Serve with game, fowl, fish, or pasta with vegetables. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16 Merlot Selection 2018 The finest grapes for this 100% Merlot are hand-harvested from the Fushe – Zoqisht vineyard, which has high sun exposure sitting at an altitude of 1475 ft. This wine is aged in French oak barrels for 20 months. Lovely aromas of dark fruit and violet spill onto the palate with notes of cherry, berries, earth, and a touch of minerality. It is smooth and easy to drink. Pair with appetizers, spicy cuisine, pasta, or grilled chicken. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $16 Chardonnay Reserve 2018 The best Chardonnay grapes from the estate are hand-harvested from two high-altitude vineyards, Sapniq and Izbisht. The wine is aged for six months in French oak barrels. The nose offers a lovely floral bouquet and a hint of baking spice. This is a clean, crisp wine with tropical fruit, citrus, peach, and a soft creamy texture. It is fresh and balanced. Serve as an aperitif or pair with assorted cheese, grilled fish, seafood, or light pasta dishes. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $24 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2017 The grapes for this 100% Cabernet are hand-harvested from the Nashpall mountainside vineyard during late harvest. Vineyard exposure to prolonged sunlight contributes to quality grapes. This wine is aged in French oak barrels for 18 months. A bouquet of dark fruit and a touch of earth segue onto the palate with silky tannins and notes of plum, black raspberry, and cherry. A touch of herbs and pepper linger on a long finish. Pair with grilled meat, hearty soups or stews, seared tuna, and grilled vegetables. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $24 Gecaj Estate Owners Choice 2017 This is the signature wine of Stone Castle. And, what is more fitting than to have an eagle, the symbol of Kosovo, on the wine label? It is a 50/50 blend of the estate’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. The fruit is hand-harvested from the Izbisht vineyard at an altitude of 1640 ft. and receives 10 to 12 hours of sun each day. The wine is aged for 24 months in American and Hungarian oak barrels. This is a vibrant and elegant wine with seductive aromas of red fruit, vanilla, and spice. The palate is layered with black raspberry, plum, cherry, anise, fig, pepper, and hints of dark chocolate. Silky tannins add to the wine’s complexity and depth. Pair with grilled meat, hearty stews, game, pasta, or a charcuterie platter. Alcohol: 14.3% SRP: $80 I asked why their father chose “Stone Castle” as the winery name. Avdi said, “In my house, we had a kulla that went back four generations. Kullas are made of mountain rocks in the region, and Kosovo has an abundance of granite and marble. Kullas were created as fortresses, but also where rules and regulations of the towns were made. If a rule was broken, it was discussed and judged in the kulla. When the Serbs invaded Kosovo during the Yugoslavian War, they were ordered to destroy as many kullas as possible using rockets and grenades. In 2001, my father went back to Kosovo and rebuilt the family kulla, which is the largest in the region right now. It is a historic site, and he did it for the people to show that you can’t destroy us; we will build back up! My father knew that one day Stone Castle would be an international enterprise, and so he named it in honor of the destroyed kullas and for the people of Kosovo. The Stone Castle Winery entrance is new, and a tribute to the kullas destroyed in the war.” As Rrustem’s sons continue to fulfill their father’s vision by growing, expanding the business, and providing more jobs and opportunities for a recovering Kosovo, they also have some impressive plans in the making. They are building a beautiful resort, a fairy tale stone castle, on the premises. It will be seven stories tall, with 82 guest rooms, a world-class restaurant, pools, golf course, bicycle and horseback riding, vineyard trails, and wine tastings. They said, “It is a destination spot for the Balkans.” I’m ready to book my reservation!
As we concluded our interview, I asked if there might be anything else they would like to say. Without hesitation, Avdi answered, “Kosovo is ready for the world!” Avni and Arben nodded in agreement. And, I concur! I will end this article with a quote from Rrustem. “For us, Stone Castle Vineyards and Winery convey a special sense of place, history, and growing traditions. Our wines will help share positive images of Kosovo, our people’s potential and capabilities.” Until next time... Cheers! Penina This article was originally published in Santé Magazine. To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] It is an intriguing name for a wine, ‘The Paring.’ And if seen on a wine shelf, it is rather hard to walk by this collection of wines without checking them out. The brand was created by winemaker, Matt Dees whose focus and intent was to produce a line of wines that would complement a multitude of foods, from decadent feasts to casual fare. And, he succeeded. The knife depicted on the label is a paring knife, a versatile knife known for its infinite number of kitchen uses that no respectable chef would be without. The paring knife is a clever logo for these wines. In a nutshell, Matt Dees, who is in his early forties, was born in Kansas City, studied plant and soil science in Vermont, where he helped kick start a winery, and then returned to Kansas for a short time to work at another winery. He eventually worked as a winemaker for Staglin Family Vineyard in Napa and Craggy Range in Hawkes Bay, New Zealand. However, his chance to really shine came in 2004 when he took on the position as winemaker for JONATA, The Hilt, and The Paring in Santa Barbara County, owned by billionaire Stanley Kroenke. Kroenke also happens to own Screaming Eagle and the Los Angelos Rams. JONATA is their premium wine and is based in Ballard Canyon in the Santa Ynez Valley. The Hilt, a more moderately priced brand, is located in the Sta. Rita Hills. The wines for The Paring, created in 2006, are a cut from each estate and produced from AVA vineyard blocks that are either too young or don’t fit into the vintage style of JONATA and The Hilt wines. The grapes for The Paring are sourced primarily from three Santa Barbara regions on the vanguard: Santa Ynez Valley, Sta. Rita Hills, and Santa Maria Valley. Here are three of The Paring wines sent to me for review. These wines are produced with minimal intervention out of the belief that “90% of the winemaking happens in the vineyard.” They are a true expression of Californias style wines. The Paring Sauvignon Blanc 2019
100% Sauvignon Blanc aged in 1/3 new French oak, 1/3 neutral French oak, and 1/3 stainless steel tanks for ten months. This wine is unfined and unfiltered. Beautiful notes of melon, white stone fruit, and citrus segue onto the palate with refreshing acidity and a touch of lemon zest. Texture, depth, and character define this wine. Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with spicy cuisine, grilled fish, or bbq chicken. Alcohol: 13.5% SRP: $25 The Paring Syrah 2018 Grapes for this 100% Syrah are sourced from the Santa Ynez Valley. The wine is aged in French oak, 35% new, and 65% neutral for 22 months. This wine is unfined and unfiltered. This wine is all that you would expect of a Syrah. The nose offers violet notes, dark berries, and pepper. A lush palate of juicy dark berries, earth, baking spice, and pepper are accompanied by silky tannins and a long finish. Fire up the grill and be confident that anything you cook, this wine will pair well with. Alcohol: 14.5% SRP: $25 The Paring Red 2017 This Bordeaux style wine is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. It is aged in French oak, 55% new, and 45% neutral for 22 months. It is unfined and unfiltered. Lovely aromas of dark fruit, herbs, and earth set the stage for this smooth and structured wine. A rich, multi-layered palate of lush ripe fruit, dark plum, spice, anise, tobacco, and cocoa add character to a delicious experience and palate-pleasing wine. Pair with appetizers, cheese, grilled meat, fish, stews, and vegetables. Alcohol: 14.1% SRP: $25 These are expressive and all-around wines for the price tag. I’m impressed! Until next time… Cheers! Penina To leave a comment or if you have an inquiry, please contact me at [email protected] |
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